Tips of the Month

 

Antifreeze

This is a topical one, with the winter rushing in fast, its time to make sure the anti-freeze level is as it should be. If you find you need to add anti-freeze, the normal way of making room is to disconnect the radiator bottom hose from the water pump, let the water run down the back of the engine, re-connect the hose and then add the anti-freeze.

If you have an ultimate engine steady - the one that attaches to the thermostat housing, you cannot get at the bottom hose. Rather than removing the engine steady, you can disconnect the heater hose that runs from the head (clutch end) to either the manifold or the heater tap. If you leave the pipe attached at the head, the other end can be inserted in a suitable container.

Next fold a piece of kitchen towel, cut a hole about an inch diameter and place the hole over the mouth of the radiator. Block the hole that the heater hose was connected to with your thumb, place your mouth on the kitchen towel and blow. This will force the water out into your container. When you have expelled enough water, re-connect the heater hose and add the anti-freeze.

Idler Gear Bearing Removal

This months tip was prompted by Bob in Singapore on the Mini List. I concerns the removal of the outer race of the idler gear bearing from the flywheel housing.

I have a simple tool that can be easily made from a length of 2 x 2 (or 50 x 50 if you prefer). One end is shaped to be a sliding fit in the bearing. See web site (www.miniregister.co.uk/tipfeb2002) for photos.

When the tool is ready, pack the space inside the race with grease, make sure the flywheel housing is well supported behind the bearing, engage the tool in the race and then hit the tool with a big hammer.

The hydraulic pressure will force the race out of the flywheel housing.

To avoid getting a jet of grease in the eye, use a self tapper screw to plug the oil drain hole, but don't forget to remove it afterwards.

Wet seats ?

If your Mini has the opening rear side windows and you get mysterious wet patches on the rear seat, lift the rubber seal around the aperture and check the flange for rust.

There may be no outward sign of a problem, but the flange can expand as the dreaded tin-worm takes hold, forcing the seal apart and allowing water to find its way through. As a precaution, when ever you wash the car, make sure you get all the water out of the gap between the body and the window, it is amazing how much collects there.